Rumours of the death of Goa have been greatly exaggerated. It all depends on where you stay. Lady Hamlyn recently booked the entire Pousada Tauma for a house party. It is a 12-suite eco-friendly boutique hotel and ayurveda centre, built from luminous Goan laterite stones around a meandering pool, with massage tables made from the trunks of medicinal trees. De-stressing, rest and simple, natural food are the keystones of Pousada Tauma. Here is a gentler India in which to wind down after the cultural overload of Rajasthan.